Surfing... Boogey Boarding... keeping the bikini on...

I expressed my desire to try surfing while in Hawaii, but while I was there I chickened out because the waves were too big for me (since it was going to be my very first time). So I thought I could maybe try boogey board instead (that small little board you just lie on your stomach on and slide in the waves. It is closer to the beach and maybe safer (Well at least I think there might be less chance of drowning).

So I am on a beautiful beach of the north shore of Oahu and the waves are starting to look pretty cool. Even the lifeguards are already talking with the speaker, telling people that kids should not be in the water and only good swimmers should be in. (I believe I am a good swimmer, after all I train for triathlon and swim in open water very often (in the rare lakes of Arizona)). Ok I am not so used to those waves but I am not scared at all. I take my small board, make sure it is attached to my arm and start walking towards the ocean. I turn my head to look at Chris who stayed behind on the beach towel and he looks worried but also has the look on his face that says "I better pay attention to what this girl is gonna be doing, I better play the personal lifeguard here". But I just shake my hand, waving at him, and he waves back with a worried smile.
The waves are cool! I am gonna have so much fun!
I step in the water and go forward, there is already a big big wave coming at me, maybe I can jump over it and I will be in the deeper water. I put my board against my stomach and jump over the wave, but I think I miscalculated the size of this first wave. I suddenly find myself tumbling under the water, I lost the board (I hope it stays attached to my arm). I keep holding my breath under the water; I don't know where the bottom and the top is anymore. I feel my head hitting the bottom and the sand, still holding my breath.
How much longer is this freaking wave going to keep me tumbling?
I don't know how much longer I could keep holding my breath like that but there is no way I breath now.
I start feeling my bikini pulling down, h my gosh I just hope it is still on when the wave is over.
10 seconds later I am lying on the sand with more waves coming at me telling me "take that! and That! Did you think you could master the big Hawaiian waves girlfriend?"
I am on my ass, legs up, the top of my bikini is half off, covering only one boob and offering the other one live and high definition to everyone watching me on the beach. The bottom is pulled down a little bit and is showing the beginning of my butt "a la plumber".
Now I am wondering if I should hide my boob or hide my ass first. Shit it doesn't matter Cecile, just do something to stop embarrassing yourself. But all I can do is cough the extra water I have in my lungs, and the waves keep going back and forth to keep trying to steal my bathing suit.
The Pacific Ocean is a thief!
After a minute of coughing, I finally put myself together, take my board, and look back toward Chris back there on the dry sand. He has the largest smile ever, and does not look worried at all. He then makes a sign calling me to come back to the towels. I turn towards the wannabe thief again and shake my head "You will not have my bikini today, I bought it in France last time I went at "Etam" and I keep it my dear."
So I turn around like a beat up dog and go back to my towel.
On my way there, a guy says "wow that wave really got you, you were under there for a very long time!"
So I said "Yeah!? Jealous?"
Pff... all I wanted was a little glide on a nice little wave but that damn ocean didn't want to share the fun with me today.
I will try again next year